Ask a Master Gardener
Have a gardening question? Just ask! The certified WSU Extension Cowlitz County Master Gardeners in our Plant and Insect Clinic have been tackling everything from simple curiosities to tough garden challenges. Backed by up-to-date, science-based knowledge and hands-on experience, we’re here to support your gardening goals. Reach us online or visit our in-person plant clinics—we’re ready to help!
Three Ways to Reach us:
Via Email:
In Person:
Drop off samples at our Extension Office
April-October: Monday, Wednesday & Thursday
November-March: Wednesdays
📞 Call: 360‐577‐3014 Ext. 1
How to Collect or Photograph Samples
Photos should be clear, in focus, and zoomed in enough to show the area of interest clearly.
For plant ID, please show close-up, of leaves, how the leaves are attached to the stem, and a picture of the entire plant, tree, or shrub.
For plant problems, please take close-ups of the area of concern, both sides of the leaf (if applicable), healthy and problem areas, as well as a look at the entire plant.
For insect ID, please show as much detail as possible.
Capture insects and immediately kill by freezing. Leave in freezer overnight. Pack gently with tissues or cotton in a stoppered vial. If desired, include sample of damage.
Do not place butterflies, moths, or bees in alcohol, as key diagnostic features will be ruined.
Do not bring crushed insects or insects caught on tape or on sticky traps
Select plant material showing symptoms of concern and submit various stages of the problem, especially the early stages.
Many problems originate belowground in and around roots– include roots and soil for more accurate diagnosis!
Please do not submit dead, dry, decayed or rotted samples as they provide insufficient material for diagnosis.
Collect samples of turf showing the symptoms of concern that is at least 4 inches by 4 inches square and 3 inches deep. Include roots, thatch, and soil.
Plants are classified on floral morphology and identified using various plant parts including flowers, fruits, leaves, buds, and stems.
Send as much plant tissue as possible to give a good representation of the whole plant.
Explore this collection of free fact sheets and guides—a treasure chest of research-backed tips, tricks, and know-how to help every home gardener grow with confidence.
February Garden Tips
Pruning and Maintenance
- Deciduous Trees and Shrubs: Continue pruning landscape plants that have lost their leaves and are currently dormant.
- Fruit Trees: February is the primary time for pruning Apples and Pears. For Peaches, you can prune while they are dormant; however, for Cherries, it is recommended to wait until August to avoid bacterial infection.
- Berries and Grapes: Prune Blueberries (after their third year) and summer-bearing Raspberries. Prune and train grapes now or in early March.
- Shrubs to Prune Now: Maple, Dogwood, Wisteria, Crape Myrtle, and Rose of Sharon are among the varieties suitable for pruning this month.
- Wait to Prune:
- Spring-blooming shrubs (e.g., lilac, forsythia, star magnolia) should not be pruned until after they flower.
- Roses: Wait until forsythias are blooming (typically late February to early March) before pruning roses.
- Evergreens: Spruces, firs, and Douglas firs can be pruned now before new growth starts. Avoid pruning pines, arborvitae, or junipers at this time.
- Ornamental Grasses: Cut back to 2–3 inches before new growth emerges in March, but do not prune sedges this way.
Planting and Soil Care
- Bare-root Plants: February is an excellent time to plant bare-root fruit trees, roses, and deciduous shrubs.
- Vegetables: If the soil is dry enough to be workable, you can plant garden peas and sweet peas. Indoors, start seeds for “cole crops” like broccoli, cabbage, and cauliflower.
- Soil Testing: Perform a soil test now to determine the nutrient needs of your garden before the heavy growing season begins.
Pest and Disease Management See WSU Hortsense
- Dormant Spraying: This is the standard month for applying dormant sprays (such as lime sulfur or horticultural oils) to fruit trees, roses, and lilacs to prevent fungal diseases and suffocate overwintering insect eggs.
- Specific Problems to Scout:
- Azalea Lace Bug: If you had issues last year, spray the underside of azalea and rhododendron leaves with dormant oil now to kill overwintering eggs.
- Winter Cutworms: Watch for lawn damage (brown patches) or large numbers of birds on the lawn; treat with BT products if small “worms” are found.
- Apple Anthracnose: Remove and destroy cankered limbs, but wait for dry weather to make these cuts to avoid spreading the disease.
- Lichen and Fungus: Lichen on trees is harmless and often indicates good air quality. You may also see Witch’s Butter, an orange gelatinous fungus on logs, which is typical for late winter.
General Yard Care
- Tree Protection: Protect the south-facing trunks of young trees from “bark splitting” (caused by temperature fluctuations) by applying a 50/50 mix of white latex paint and water.
- Equipment: Tune up your lawn mower and other garden tools now before the spring rush.
- Sanitation: Remove any “mummified” fruit left on trees and destroy diseased leaves to prevent the carryover of pests and diseases into the new season.